Brown Butter Pumpkin Cake

This is one of the oldest recipes in one of my oldest recipe notebooks from the very first restaurant job I took, back in 2000. I've modified it to be makeable in a nonrestaurant setting (i.e., not as small teeny cakes baked in precious silicone molds), but it's still as perfect as ever. I'm a person who wouldn't consider myself thrilled about pumpkin or pumpkin-flavored things, but this cake really has a place in my heart. It's demurely spiced and not all that sweet, with a texture that anyone would be pleased to experience-simultaneously dense and spongy with an almost custardy texture thanks to the number of eggs and that whole can of pumpkin puree (you can make your own puree, but I'll join the chorus of bakers who will tell you it's simply not the same, nor is it better, than a can of Libby's).

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray one 9-inch cake pan or one 9 × 4-inch loaf pan with cooking spray and line with parchment paper. Or line 12 cups of a muffin tin with liners.
2. In a medium pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook, swirling occasionally until the butter is browned, foamy, and smells like popcorn, 5-7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
4. In a large bowl, whisk the pumpkin puree, eggs, maple syrup, and brown sugar until combined. Slowly whisk in the flour mixture until nearly no lumps remain, followed immediately by the browned butter mixture, whisking until no lumps remain (the batter should be smooth and thick, but do not overmix).
5. Pour it into the prepared cake pan(s) or loaf pan, smoothing the top. Or divide among the muffin cups. Bake until golden brown on top, pulling away from the sides of the pan, and springing back lightly when pressed slightly: 25-30 minutes for cake pans, 65-75 minutes for a loaf pan, and 20-25 minutes for muffins. Let cool entirely before frosting, if you're going to frost (I like to frost!).

For Frosted
it belongs at a chic autumnal dinner party. Unfrosted, it's your new favorite snacking cake.

Do ahead
The cake(s) or muffins can be baked 3 days ahead, tightly wrapped in plastic, and stored at room temperature.

Makes a 9-inch cake or one 9 x 4-inch loaf or 12 muffins